CULTURE :: SURF
HAWAII SURFING - HISTORY OF SURFING
ALOHA CREED… “STOKED” ABOUT SURFERS!
Surfing, a sport that has become one of the world’s most potent symbols of youth, romance, adventure and freedom. One of the oldest practiced sports on the planet! Surfing is one of the few sports that creates its own culture...
Riding with a board to catch the power of an ocean swell was originated in Polynesia between three and four thousand years ago. Riding the ocean waves began with seamen who rode the open ocean in outrigger and double-hulled canoes. Around 2000 B.C. Polynesians left Asia and moved to the
Hawaiian islands and the skill of surfing upright on long boards was honed in Hawai’i. He’e nalu, the word for surfing was sacred. Ali’i (chiefs) surfed special reefs and beaches on olo boards as long as 24 feet. For ancient Hawaiians, surfing was a religious sport, a unity of mind, body and spirit.
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Hawaii witnessed change, expeditions and at the dawn of the 20th century, only a few surfers rode the waves. Then came the time of celebrated Waikiki Beach boys, George Freeth and Duke Kahanamoku. Freeth introduced surfing to California and Kahanamoku founded “The Club of Waves”, and Jack London and Alexander Hume Ford novelist, journalist worked to make Waikiki the Home of the Surfer. |
With popularity, a large group of surfers began an exodus to Hawai’i from California and other states like Texas! Women broke into the male-dominated sport, Anona Napoleon and Eve Flether. There are now dozens of surf magazines, websites and a multimillion dollar international professional surfing circuit. In the true aloha spirit of giving with grace and love, surfing is truly a gift from Polynesia to the world…
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“In Hawaii we greet friends, loved ones or strangers with ALOHA, which means WITH LOVE. ALOHA is the key-word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawaii renowned as the world’s center of understanding and fellowship.
Try meeting or leaving people with ALOHA. You’ll be surprised by their reaction. I believe it and it is my creed. Aloha to you.”
—Duke Kahanamoku |
Why do people all over the world like to dress like surfers? The basic reason is pretty simple: surfing is fun and
surf wear helps remind people that life is suppose to be fun!
"Feel the mood!"
Hey X enthusiasts…
We want to know your fav locale where you can get freakish aerials and cutting edge maneuvers to put you at the top of the surfing circuit or just hanging out at a super fine beach. Let us know because we want to hear from you, your input may get you posted on our site!
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Sources: Legendary Surfers and Riding Giants
